How much of the dress is each piece?

Two different sums decide a dress, and they weigh the pieces differently. A rule like Sequin: at least 10% counts area, and the skirt is most of that. A fabric’s tag scores are split by part instead, so the small bodice counts for nearly as much as the whole skirt.

BodiceApron Bodice Aurora Bodice Belladonna Bodice Belted Jacket Bodice Bolero Bodice Bustier Bodice Cinched Keyhole Blouse Coat Dress Bodice Corset Bodice Delilah Bodice Dirndl Double Breasted Bodice Elevated Dirndl Elevated Princess V Bodice Elevated Scoop Bodice Elevated Scoop Ruffle Bodice Elevated Stays Elevated Sweetheart Bodice Flared Begonia Bodice Front Lace Bodice Front Lace Stays Gatsby Bodice Halter Neck Bodice Heart Princess Bodice Jacket Bodice Kaftan Wrap Bodice Katarina Bodice Kimono Bodice Land Girl Bodice Milkmaid Bodice Off-Shoulder Begonia Bodice One Shoulder Bodice Plunging Neckline Bodice Princess Bodice Princess Scoop Bodice Princess V Bodice Princess V Elevated Ruffle Bodice Princess V Ruffle Bodice Queen Anne Bodice Ruched Bodice Ruched Sweetheart Bodice Ruffle Apron Bodice Sax Bodice Scoop Ruffle Bodice Single Keyhole Bodice Split Crew Bodice Square Bodice Straight Begonia Bodice Strapless Bodice Sweetheart Bodice Twilight Hour Bodice Upturned Yoked Bodice V Neck Yoked Shirt Viper Bodice Waistcoat Bodice Waterfall Bodice Wrap Bodice Yoked Jacket Bodice Yoked Shirt Version1 of 22 of 2

SkirtApron Skirt Basque Tiered Skirt Belladonna Skirt Bias Cut Skirt Bow Ballgown Skirt Bow Skirt Bustle Skirt Chrysanthemum Skirt Circle Peplum Skirt Circle Skirt Coat Dress Skirt Corset Skirt Curved Peplum Skirt Dita Pencil Skirt Flare Skirt Frill Skirt Gathered Ballgown Skirt Gathered Tiered Ruffle Skirt Gatsby Skirt Godet Skirt Handkerchief Godet Skirt Kaftan Skirt Koi Skirt Mermaid Skirt Mother of Pearl Skirt Odette Skirt Pencil Skirt Petal Peplum Skirt Poinsetta Skirt Princess Skirt Puffy Gathered Tiered Skirt Ruffle Skirt Scallop Skirt Single Tiered Skirt Split Skirt Straight Gathered Tiered Skirt Straight Long Skirt Train Skirt Tulip Hip Skirt Twilight Hour Skirt Viper Skirt Waistcoat Skirt Waterfall Skirt Wavecrest Skirt Wrap Skirt Yoke Gathered Skirt Version1 of 22 of 2

SleeveNoneAngel Sleeve Angel's Trumpet Sleeve Arwen Sleeve Bell Sleeve Bracelet Sleeve Butterfly Sleeve Cap Sleeve Capulet Sleeve Chanterelle Sleeve Elbow Length Juliet Sleeve Fae Sleeve Flounce Sleeve Flutter Sleeve Gabriel Sleeve Godiva Sleeve Hecate Sleeve Juliette Sleeve Juliette-Bishop Sleeve Long Cuffed Sleeve Long Sleeve Mutton Sleeve Peasant Sleeve Peasant Sleeve with Ruffle Cuff Petal Sleeve Pleated Drop Sleeve Poet Sleeve Short Puffed Sleeve Short Sleeve Slit Sleeve Tiered Sleeves

CollarNoneBelladonna Collar Dagger Collar Double Ruffle and Bow Collar Fable Collar Mandarin Collar Peter Pan Collar Pointed Collar Pussybow Collar Qipao Collar Upright Frill Collar Whirlpool Collar

0.0%of the dress, for rules like Sequin: at least 10%

0.0%of a fabric’s tag scores reach the dress

Tick the pieces you will cut from one fabric.

Piece	Share of the dress	Share of tag scores
Undershirt Front Apron Bodice	4.3%	17%
Undershirt Back Apron Bodice	3.9%	15%
Apron Belt Back Apron Bodice	0.4%	1.5%
Apron Belt Front Apron Bodice	0.6%	2.1%
Bodice Front Apron Bodice	1.6%	6.2%
Bodice Strap Left Apron Bodice	0.7%	2.8%
Bodice Strap Right Apron Bodice	0.7%	2.8%
Skirt Back Apron Skirt	12%	7.6%
Skirt Front Apron Skirt	12%	7.2%
Skirt Left Apron Skirt	15%	9.0%
Skirt Right Apron Skirt	15%	9.0%
Skirt Ruffle Back Apron Skirt	9.1%	5.5%
Skirt Ruffle Front Apron Skirt	8.9%	5.4%
Skirt Apron Front Apron Skirt	13%	7.6%
Skirt Apron Ruffle Front Apron Skirt	3.2%	1.9%

Rules that count area

Share rules on a card, such as a fabric (Velvet: at least 50%) or a colour (Black: at least 50%), measure each cut piece’s area against the whole dress. On a typical pairing the skirt is about 88% of the bodice-and-skirt area, and a peplum or a waistband is only a percent or two. That is why a sequin goal met with trim pieces takes far more fabric than it looks: put the fabric on one skirt panel instead. A fabric in several colours splits its area between them, so a two-colour print counts half toward each. 21 cards on the commission finder have a share rule like this.

Tag scores count parts, not area

Leave out the collar or the sleeves and their share goes to the other parts. Inside a part, each piece counts by its area within that part. So a strong fabric on the bodice alone moves a tag by about a third of that fabric’s score, for a small piece of cloth; the skirt moves it a little more but costs many times the metres. The patterns you pick add their own tag values on top, and accessories add theirs after that. How the accessories stack is on a tag that will not go up, and the fabric with the most of a tag is in the fabric finder.

Using it on a card

• Short on a tag: recut the bodice in a fabric strong in that tag before you touch the skirt.
• Short on a share rule: the opposite. Change a skirt panel; small pieces barely count.
• Check before you cut: the sketchbook shows the tag totals as you add swatches, and the pass-or-fail checker reads a finished dress against its card.